File:Sturmey-Archer AW 3-speed negeriku.info - Wikipedia
Find the age of your bicycle from your Sturmey Archer hub; including new research on finding your hub date from K hub serial numbers. A Sturmey Archer three speed AW gear, the most common kind of Sturmey Archer gear. Sturmey-Archer is a manufacturing company originally from Nottingham, England. It primarily All Sturmey Archer gear hubs use epicyclic ( planetary) geartrains of varying complexity. The AW is the simplest, using one set of planetary. The Sturmey Archer AW hub is 75 years old this year. The reliability of this design means that there are plenty of these hubs still in service.
The Sturmey-Archer AW 3-speed hub, by far the most popular one, was durable and, easy to maintain and rebuild. Quality issues also began to creep in. Sturmey-Archer history is covered in the book The Sturmey-Archer Story and its online update by Tony Hadland ; bits and pieces of the history are in the technical articles on this site.
File:Sturmey-Archer AW 3-speed hub.jpg
Sheldon wrote, sometime before his untimely demise in Sturmey-Archer was a division of Raleigh Industries until autumn,when the parent company ran into financial difficulties. For a while it appeared that it would disappear entirely into bankruptcy.
The land the factory stood on was sold, and Sturmey-Archer was nearly liquidated by a corporate raider.
Fortunately, a Taiwanese company called SunRace came to the rescue, and bought the company assets more or less intact. The machinery and stock were moved to Taiwan.
SunRace resumed production of Sturmey-Archer hubs -- some pre-existing models, many new ones. Sturmey-Archer quality had been on a downward slide since the early s, as the company's engineering efforts shifted from trying to make a better product, as they had been through the first half century, to finding ways to make an acceptable product cheaper.
Sturmey-Archer's quality peaked probably in the late '50s. SunRace spent a great deal of money moving the machinery from England to Taiwan, but when it arrived, it turned out that most of the machinery was worn-out junk, no longer capable of manufacturing parts to the degree of precision appropriate to the 21st century.
Back in the day, sometimes a batch of internal parts would be just a bit out of tolerance, maybe a bit too small, or a bit too large, whatever.
Sturmey-Archer Heritage :: History
The production people would take a sample to the engineering department, where a grey-haired engineer would check it out and often say "Well, it is a bit out of spec, but not really enough to cause failure, so let's let it go. Melt it down, and make new ones, and do it right this time!
Sturmey-Archer's selection of multi-speed hubs is much wider than that of the other manufacturers. Some folks don't believe that the Taiwanese can make stuff as well as the British did, but there's no factual basis for that belief, and in many cases this attitude may be traced to racism. I find that Taiwan-made bicycles and bicycle components are generally of good quality, but, as Sheldon's observations about earlier English production make clear, problems with Sturmey-Archer hubs are nothing new.
So, it is not shocking to discover that problems have occurred with Sturmey-Archer in Taiwan. The problems occur due to marketing-driven design issues which are described in more detail in the Trends section of our article on internal-gear hub theory. Sheldon didn't live long enough to see these problems play out with Sturmey-Archer under SunRace management. The problems are least with three-speed hubs. Generally speaking, their designs have been stable, and replacement parts are available either from Sturmey-Archer, or for the classic AW three-speed, from aftermarket suppliers including Harris Cycleryor a conscientious pack-rat bike shop mechanic or trash picker.
Complete parts lists and rebuilding information on hubs from the original model up through the year is available at the Sturmey-Archer Heritage Web site. A knowledgeable mechanic writes the following: On the plus side, the current range of hubs has never been any larger than it is now.
The traditional virtues of the brake hubs are still present, and if I were to choose a set of wheels for a robust city bike right now, they would probably have SA hubs in them. Despite being ancient beyond belief, and vulnerable to knocks if not protected, the toggle chain is still the simplest and best method of controlling a 3-speed hub IMHO.
The no-intermediate-gear 3-speed and 5-speed hubs have a 'pawl actuator plate' fitted which is a common source of trouble. This can be further disassembled by removing the right-hand locknut and cone, which allows the rest of the hub mechanism to be taken apart.
One of the notches for unscrewing the right-hand ball ring Left to right: The left-hand axle nut, non-turn washer, locknut, spacer and cone Left to right top: Dust cap, sprocket snap-ring.
Dust cap, spacer, sprocket, spacer, snap-ring.
- File history
- In this article:
The driver assembly and clutch spring Gear ring left and right-hand ball ring right Left to right: Axle including sun pinion. Planet-cage, 4 planet pinions cogs and 4 pinion pins. The low-gear pawls in the planet-cage can also be removed if necessary, although when removing these be sure not to lose the tiny pawl springs in the process. The same also goes for the pawls in the gear ring. Once all this has been disassembled, a good cleaning with some degreaser and a cloth or paper towel should restore the hub to its former glory.
Particularly dirty or rusty parts can be soaked overnight or cleaned with wire wool just make sure to remove any left-over bits of wire wool before re-assembling the hub.
To re-assemble the gear mechanism, hold the axle vertically with the drive-side pointing up axle hole above the sun pinion.
Add the planet pinions and the pinion pins back into the planet cage and place the assembly over the top of the axle with the planets at the top. Add a dab of Sturmey Archer hub gear grease to the planet pinions and rotate the planet cage assembly around the axle a few times to distribute the grease around. Place the clutch sleeve over the axle and line up the hole in the sleeve with the hole in the axle. Place the clutch over the axle and the clutch sleeve. Slide the axle key through the hole in the clutch sleeve and axle, with the threaded hole in the axle key lined up with the centre of the axle.
Slide the thrust ring over the axle key and clutch, lining up the grooves in the thrust ring with the protruding parts of the axle key.