STANLEY # CABINET SCRAPER PLANE. | eBay
Stanley # Scraper Plane This popular scraper plane is in good condition. It is marked Stanley in large block letters which would date this from near the plane dates from near the turn of the century and can be considered a type 2 or 3 . Description of scrapers and circular planes. The identical blade holding/ adjustment assembly is found on the #12 1/4, #12 1/2, #12 3/4, #, and # The outermost brass adjusting nut can be found with the patent date on the earliest .. toe of the plane (see the image of the nickel plated example below for the type 1. Stanley planes by numbers Stanley cabinet scraper plane Type 1 has a beaded front knob Bailey's Pat on the brass cap screw in front.
Again, the reason why is left as an exercise for the reader. The lever cap is of the common cheaper style, where it's activated by a thumb screw and sits under a rod, peened into the cheeks of the plane. The lever cap screw is cast with heavy knurling about it. The screw is sometimes japanned and sometimes nickel plated it's more often japannedwith the lever cap entirely japanned. The cutter is adjustable for depth by means of a two-pronged lever held captive between the projections that the iron rests upon.
On the business end of the lever is a pin-like projection, which engages a depression in the bottom of the cap screw. Thus, this plane's cap screw is different from that of the Bailey design, so you should check that it's proper. The screw is much smaller than the Bailey's, and has a noticeable depression on the slotted side. There is no lateral adjustment mechanism. Check that the cap iron is original.
Since the tool has its own cheaper mechanism for adjusting the set, it also has its own cap iron, which isn't slotted like it is for the Bailey patent planes. The planes are very rugged, and there is little that can go wrong with them, from a design standpoint. However, most of them suffered harsh treatment, and show it, usually with cracked totes and pitted soles. Check the adjustment lever, and its linkages, for breakage.
Same as theexcept that it is a jack size plane. This was a very popular block plane. It is like theexcept it's longer. But, it's still a cheap piece of junk when compared to Stanley's other block planes.
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- Stanley No 12 Plane
There is no adjustment mechanism provided on the plane, and proper irons have backsides that are without any notches; i. The first and second model, pictured here, of the plane are vary scarce and collectible. These two models have a fancy, floral cast lever cap, which sort of resembles a shoe-buckle.
A small lever cap wheel four-pronged and cast of brass on the first model, knurled and cast of iron on the later models activates the lever cap. The lever cap is held captive by the rod, which screws into the left check of the plane.
Since the cap is so delicate, it is often found broken either where it pivots on the rod or back where the tightening wheel threads into it.
Stanley Scraper Planes
By the early 's, the plane took on a more conventional appearance, losing its Victorian look. Because the of the lever cap's fragility it was no longer held captive to the plane, and lost its intricate design save for a six or five pointed star cast into it until the early 's.Quangsheng 112 Scraper Plane
The lever cap from then on was featureless, making a dull plane even duller. Sometimes, the later lever cap is so badly damaged that the tightening wheel can no longer place sufficient pressure on the iron to keep it set. Thus, it's possible to find these planes with crude repairs and ingenious means to hold the iron in place, with one of the most common being the removal of the lever cap altogether in favor of a simple wooden wedge that's driven under the cross rod.
Seems kinda retro, recalling the days of old when wooden wedges held irons in place, but it actually works. The front knob is often replaced on the earliest models, since it is friction fit inside a raised boss in the bottom casting. Many guys solved the problem of the knob falling out by drilling a hole through the main casting and then securing the knob with a screw.
The Superior Works - Patrick's Blood & Gore: Planes #12 - #20 1/2
The first model of the plane is the rarest of all types, and has a distinct boat-shape to it. It's a nice looking plane, albeit very fragile - the aforementioned breakage to the lever cap is most common, followed by cracks in the cheeks and about the mouth. The problem of the front knob falling out of the plane was solved by screwing it directly onto a raised thread boss cast into the main casting. Planes with this feature have rosewood knobs until after WWII, at which time they became stained hardwood.
Because the plane has no adjustment features, other than your setting the iron by hand, the iron's backside is flat. Any holes or grooves in the backside mean it's a replacement. The iron can often be found mushroomed at the top due to its being set by a hammer in a manner like wooden planes are set. Be sure to check where the lever cap's tightening screw threads into the lever cap for any sign of crack in the tapped boss.
Also, check the lever cap about the area where it rests under the rod that spans the side of the plane for any signs of cracks; on the later models this part of the lever cap is somewhat fragile due to the void cast in the lever cap.
I n the humble hah! For the longest time, the plane labored in relative obscurity among a cult of those adroit in the fine points of scraping. However, a popular scratch n' sniff magazine prominently featured the plane on the cover of an issue, and the prices of the things have never been the same.
Everybody wants one, and once you use one, you'll see why. Hey, my life isn't complete without one, and I gotta have one - press here to order. The tool is nothing but the 12 configured like a 4 smoothing plane.
It has the typical rosewood knob and tote like those found on the Bailey bench planes, and it is gripped and pushed just like the bench planes are. Optional cutters could be purchased to turn the plane into a toothing plane; the toothing cutters were available in 22, 28, and 32 teeth per inch.
These same cutters also fit the The earliest model has a bead at the bottom of its front knob. These blades are not common at all, and they were probably soon dropped in favor of ones with a straight edge along both short dimensions across the width of the blade for the reason that some folks like to have both ends of the blade with a burr to be at the ready when one edge goes dull.
The earliest models do not have the number cast into them. The astute reader will note that the patent date on the nut is nearly some 30 years earlier than the supposed year this plane was introduced. Since the patents expired by the time this plane was offered in the catalog, it seems odd that Stanley would put this nut on the Perhaps they were doing it to intimidate would be copiers, ignorant of patent law, as a warning, but it's more likely that they were just using up old stock since the same nut can be found on the 12 's produced during this time.
It may be possible that Stanley produced the plane prior toperhaps 10 years earlier catalogs and production dates were many times out of synchronization while the patent was still applicable. Look at the spewage for the 12 for things that can be damaged on this plane. In addition, check the area of casting, from the sole, where the handle rests.
There is a rather fragile extension to the main casting here, which sometimes can be found broken. Never buy one with a high knob of the style found on the bench planes - they only came with the low knob although some models have a taller than usual low knob that's unique to this plane. Strangely, many of the earlier planes say up to WWI have an unusually thin coat of japanning, making it common for the planes to be found with their finish peeling or blistering.
Maybe someone in the department was taking home bottles of japanning to paint the town black? You would think that the two other Stanley circular planes would have satisfied Stanley, but no, they had to come up with another design. This one probably arose from the need to compete with Leonard Bailey's better Victor design, the 20where the adjustment of the front and rear portion of the sole occurred in unison via a single adjusting knob. This plane has the typical thin steel sole attached to the main casting by dovetailed keys the earliest design or screws later design to solve the problem of the sole breaking free.
A large, mushroom-shaped knob, located on the front of the plane, adjusts the flexible sole by raising a screw that is attached to the forward pivoting arm.
This arm is connected to a gear, located on the left of the main casting, which, in turn, drives another gear that is connected to the rear arm. Thus, both portions of the sole are adjusted simultanously. Later models have graduations machined into the gears to help set the plane to a particular curvature. The earliest models of the plane have a japanned lever cap with a fancy nickel plated screw. The lever cap sits into two slots on either side of it.
Depth adjustment of the cutter is done by a side wheel on the right that activates a clever sliding section that's machined into the bed. Both the front and rear arms are straight. There is no lateral adjustment mechansim. Later planes have the typical Bailey style adjustments. The plane's main casting was redesigned to accomodate the full features of the bench plane design - the brass depth adjustment screw, the lateral adjustment lever, and the slotted lever cap. The rear arm of the plane is curved, whereas the front arm is straight, just like the earlier models.
There is a scarce later variant of this plane, where it has the full Bailey patented features as well as a highly decorative nickel plated front knob.
This knob has a four-lobed decoration cast into it, and was often used on the planes that Stanley made under contract for hardware firms such as Keen Kutter. Check the linkages on the sole for any signs of stress tears. Also check the area where the sole is dovetailed to the main casting for any cracks. Make sure the grip for the rear hand behind the cutter is present and secured tightly - many of these planes have had their grip screws stripped off or are missing the grip altogether. Also check the slots in the main casting where the old style lever cap engages the main casting - this area is prone to chipping and cracking.
For working purposes, make sure the sole adjusting screw isn't stripped adjust the sole through its entire range and that the cutter depth adjustment wheel moves the plate up and down freely remove the iron to inspect it. While inspecting this area, check the main casting itself, right behind the adjuster, since some of the planes break here and are welded back together.
Adjust the iron up and down with it in the plane. The cap irons are unique to this plane, and they can be found with cap irons taken from a standard 3. The slot in the cap iron is located higher up on the compass planes than it is on the bench planes. If a 3 cap iron is used on this plane, it's impossible to get a satisfactory set on the iron.
I don't really like this plane for the reason that its sole can go out of set during use. The same knob that's used to adjust the sole is also used to grip during planing. So, it's easy to change the adjustment of the sole. Stanley recognized this problem, and provided the later planes with a set screw that tightens the knob after the sole has been set. Most prices seen reflect actual sale results from this website. Prices seen span a long period of time and may not reflect current values.
Some are selling for more, many now sell for less. On some pieces you will see no price, or a price range, with or without an explanation. The reasons for that are discussed on the FAQ page. Our current offering of Antiques for sale are at our sister Website Patented-Antiques. It has a Sweetheart era cutter in it. The roller is original and proper.
The sides and sole of this scraper plane have been nicely lapped and there is no rust or pitting to speak of. The Rosewood handle and knob are fine and original. The cutter is unmarked which is not unusual for this plane. There has been some losses to the jappaning, but it is not rusty or pitted. The cutter is a Disston Scraper. It has been lapped and there is no rust or pitting. It has been repainted or had the jappaning enhanced. The cutter is unmarked as is typical for this plane.
Minor losses to jappaning. Staining but no rust or pitting on sole. Cutter is a Hirsch scraper blade.
The sides and sole are rust and pit free, and it look great. The throat is perfect. The tilting Rosewood handle and knob are nice. Overall a super example of a hard to find Stanley scraper plane. No rust or pitting, just a nice dark patina. The cutter is proper, near full length, stained but not pitted or rusty.
It is marked Stanley in large block letters which would date this from near the turn of the century. The finish on the Rosewood handle and knob is nice and there is just one small chip out of the top of the tote. The cutter is unmarked but looks original and correct. There is one apology. On the rear drivers side rail the previous owner stamped his initials CAT, and when he hit that last letter he created a small and barely noticeable hairline that if I did not mention it might be overlooked.
The plane has the patented Bailey features. Initially, the plane did not have the lateral adjustment lever, but it was soon added once the feature made it on the bench planes. A large number of these planes can be found with the solid adjusting nut and no lateral adjustment lever. The sales of the mechanically adjustable models probably account for this as they cut into the sales of this model once the mechanical ones made their debut.
Prior to the mechanical ones, all circular planes were manually adjustable. The plane carries the same textured lever cap found on the transitional planes see that section for an image. The outer diameter couldn't be as small as the inner since there would be a severe amount of strain put on the sole and because the adjusting straps can't swing through the same range due to the main casting.
These circular planes aren't nearly as easy to use as the 20 and for the fact that the sole isn't adjusted by mechanical means. To get a fair curvature to the bottom, you have to adjust the front portion and rear portion of the sold independently from each other and hope that you give them the same radius. You can cut a template of the required radius and then set the plane's sole from that. These planes don't command as much money as Stanley's other circular planes because of their primitive sole adjustment.
If you're on a tool budget, imposed upon you by a stingy housemate, you might want to consider this one for your arsenal. But, you'll never claim bragging rights with the big boys, who have firm control over the household finances, when buying this one.
Stanley #12 Scraper Setup and Use
There is no This is the first break in the numbering sequence, and the reason for it went to the grave with all them old Stanley employees. There are more breaks in the numbering sequence. The 15 pictured here shows the characteristic Excelsior design, where the hump of the side wall is noticeably toward the rear of the plane to give it a more aerodynamic look it is a plane, afterall. This casting was used on the plane from its inception and was dropped ca. Although it isn't visible in the image, this particular 15 has the fanciful Bailey and patent date etching on the left cheek the same style of etching was commonly used on handsaws.
The lever caps on these planes show the gothic arch pattern at the leading edge of the lever cap. Pay close attention to the threads, if you're looking for a replacement locking nut for the rear handle.
This plane is identical to the 15 except that its metal trim is nickel plated, just like the 16 's trim is. You can sometimes find the plane marked with its number stamped into the lateral adjuster, where it bends downward at the end you grip.
It's a rather strange place to find the plane's marking as the lateral adjuster is common amongst all the adjustable 20 degree block planes. The 19 is also sometimes marked on the adjuster. The 17 pictured here is stamped on its left side "IMPERFECT" because there is a tiny, pin-head sized pock mark in the main casting, which couldn't be machined out of the casting without compromising its strength. The plane is otherwise flawless, and received all the proper machining and finish trim that a perfect example got.
The cutter is marked with the sweetheart logo, dating this plane to the early 's. Stanley sold these planes to cut-rate hardware stores, but the boxes they shipped them in do not make any mention of the manufacturer. The label for this plane just lists the model number, what the plane's function is, and its dimensions.
Prior to around this date, Stanley simply trashed the castings that had imperfections, which weren't discovered until after machining. However, as the cost of labor increased, and the effort spent to find out later that the tool would be 'imperfect', the work already done actually cost the company real money. Stanley decided to recoup as much cost as possible by simply finishing the tool, only to sell it at a slimmer profit than they would have realized had the tool been flawless. Perhaps this business modus operandi is the begining of the downhill slide in tool quality that we now suffer when shopping at Home Cheapo outlets?
Yet another block plane! Like all the others listed so far, but with one distinguishing feature - a knuckle joint lever cap. So, what's this knuckle joint lever cap anyway? It, in my opinion, is one of the coolest contraptions ever to leave New Britain. The second design of the lever cap, that is. The knuckle joint cap is a two-piece pressed steel cap that has a comfortable palm rest, which snaps a linkage to place pressure on what is the lever cap proper.
A good approximation of what the knuckle joint lever cap looks like is a conventional bench plane's lever cap with a spoon, concave portion downward, resting over a good length of the lever cap, pinned crosswise to the lever cap. The 'spoon' portion of the lever cap, then, is oriented upward, and fits into the palm, making for good, sure grip of the plane during use.
The 'spoon' portion lifts up and down, loosening or snapping the lever cap in place, as the case may be; raising it takes the pressure off the cutter while lowering it locks it.
Because of the way the lever cap is activated, there is little chance that the iron can be knocked out of lateral truth like it can be with the conventional block plane lever cap, which relies on a small lever that's activated by rotating it. This design proved to be very effective, barring a minor design flaw during its introduction. The flaw was soon corrected. The first release of the knuckle joint relied on a two-prong fork-like piece that engaged the lever cap screw, which protrudes above the iron, at the leverage point of the cap.
These lever caps have "PAT. It wasn't a very good design, since many of the caps broke about this point, rendering the plane useless. The cap never really locks into place all that well, and can often pop free during use. Apart from the forks on the cap, the early-style cap can easily be distinguished from the improved design by the number of parts it has - the early one only has a two-part cap. The cap was redesigned to overcome the flaws of the earlier design. The solution was to make a conventional-style lever cap slip over the lever cap screw, and through the means of a two-piece linkage, the 'spoon' portion of the lever cap places pressure on the iron when it's snapped in place.
This new design of the lever cap is made up of 4 pieces, and it's the one you should look for, if you plan to use the plane. Check that this newer mechanism functions well, and that the linkages under the lever cap are proper are sound.
I have seen cracked examples of the lever cap, making thorough scrutinization mandatory. The lever caps came nickel plated, but they are often found with a lot of it missing from years of use. However, a surprising amount of it can often be found on the lever cap. Check the sole, just behind the iron, very carefully on these planes. Because the knuckle joint lever cap can exert a great amount of force on the iron, due to its design, the sole can develop stress cracks to either side of the back of the mouth.
Also, make sure that the lever cap screw is proper for the plane. The lever cap screw on planes originally equipped with the knuckle joint lever cap are a bit longer than those used on the other block planes. If this is done, the lever cap screw must be backed off to accommodate the lever cap. This results in fewer threads holding the lever cap screw to the main casting.
In other words, it has the adjustable mouth, the lateral adjustment lever, and the brass depth adjusting nut. They didn't sell like hotcakes despite the obvious benefit of giving your arm the rest it needs by reducing the weight of your tool. Like the 18all the trimmings of this planes are nickel plated, which is usually long gone on the specimens that surface.
Like all the aluminum planes, these things can become pretty heinous looking after 2 hours of use. Those that haven't been used are sorta neat looking bearing a striking resemblance to a Daredevil, Jitterbug, Hullapopper, etc.
Good thing they don't come equipped with a treble hook otherwise you may be taken hook, line, and sinker by one of these wonders of the tool world. Stanley had a concept going with aluminum and steel, and they were obsessed to apply it to as many planes as they could in their attempt to make the mundane extraordinary when in reality they actually made the bland blander.
Luckily, a World War popped up at just the right time to KO this pitiful product that Stanley tried to jazz up by nickel plating the lever cap, knob, and cutter adjuster. The plane's steel body, with a japanned interior, has two circular cutouts along the arched sides in this plane's version of the Hand-y grip the lengths Stanley would go to make something different, yet the same, are mind-numbing. The lateral adjustment lever screws into a rivetted two-piece, I-beam shaped cross member that is itself rivetted to the sides of the plane's body.
The cutter's depth adjustment lever is pinned to another rivetted two-piece construction that's also rivetted to the body. One look at the plane and you'll quickly see that the thing must have been engineered by an unemployed ironworker; cockroaches will have good company in the event of a nuclear holocaust. The plane has an adjustable mouth that's similar to that used on the 18but it's different. The sliding section to close the mouth isn't fit into the sole, but sits atop the body.
As a result of this design, a gap in the sole forms when the mouth is closed. This gap can become jammed up with wood schmutz causing the plane to lift ever so slightly away from the wood, which, as any Einstein quickly realizes, will make the plane stop cutting, especially when the mouth is set fine. The model number, "No S18", is stamped into the toe of the sliding section, just in case you have a tough time distinguishing cast iron from pressed steel, I suppose.
The sliding section uses an eccentric cam that's unique to this plane. The cam pivots directly below the knob with the arc-shaped slot swinging over a small, projecting pin that's peened onto the sliding section.