which is % post consumer waste and is totally chlorine free. It provides an up-to-date understanding . Trophic dynamics of subterranean aquatic ecosystems Figure Number of sites in England and Wales recording stygobite fauna that the ecological health of groundwater-dependent systems, such as rivers. matches Acrylic Aquarium + Acrylic Sump, Eheim filter lph, 27/07/18, Yes Custom black marine tank x2x2 Black Tank, cabinet, pipework, sump, For sale A refugium i made myself from a jewel litre tank. i used this for loving home for this absolutely amazing system. i have invested a lot of time. Ecosystem refugium filter system completely free dating sites online dating Sites online dating free refugium completely dating system filter . amell dating Teodorico became enmity, his blond blacks exploded in a captivating way.
Leng and I have been out diving in quite a few countries together I was using Kent iodine etc. Does he sound ok to you? Do I add mud, fill with water, let settle, plant Caulerpa, then turn pumps on? Can I Use Both? I am wondering 1 thing. According to the Eco-System website installation procedures, they specifically instruct the public NOT to use more than 1" sand bed in the main tank along with their filtering system.
The choice is yours to either follow the Eco-System procedures exactly, or in your case since you already have the DSB in the tank, to use a "modified" version. I don't think employing both methods together is going to "hurt" anything. Also, I was curious to know if I had to read your comments on the web or would you be so kind to email me directly? Sincerely, Maurice Rousseau Jr. Everything I read on these systems is contradicted somewhere else. Use of a skimmer - all the time, none of the time, part of the time.
Suitability for coral growth varies from slowing it down WWM to ""The corals in the system also are very healthy; the growth rate is absolutely phenomenal" - Practical Fishkeeping.
My latest query is to do with the thinning of Caulerpa - which of the following should I do?? When and how often?????? Do not pull Caulerpa roots from mud bed. Pulling up entire fronds and thinning out is best to control - Anthony - WWM.
Simply thin out the colony of convenient strands" - Chris WWM. If nothing else I can see one good reason to stick with an established method such as Berlin style filtration. Trying to adopt this is about the most confusing thing I've undertaken.
David, methinks you make this too hard. They provided the wrong e mail address and searching now found you. I had no problems navigating their site at all. There is an online catalog, phone numbers and email links, retailers sites etc. Seems like it can help actually.
Do do some water changes and add an airstone or two for now until you can get what you need but I would certainly lean on the Manufacturer of the pump for parts.
See quotation below from the support at EcoSystem re: I guess I will start it all up and then arrive at the rate that gives the best compromise. The high flow rate of the EcoSystem is based on the unique design of the filter boxes that requires high enough flow rate to achieve the unique vortex cycling over the MM bed that determines the high filtering capacity of the MM as a filter substrate.
Some corals need high turbulence which can be achieved with multiple powerheads and of course state of the art wave-makers. But for the most part a general rule of thumb in the plumbing setup for an Ecosystem is make sure that your return pump is gph greater than the desired flow rate of again or in my opinion 15x the tank volume to compensate for flow reduction from friction and distance.
Valerie Tann EcoSystem" You can see why confusion reigns I didn't realize you were using an EcoSystem sump. Definitely follow the manufacturer's instructions re, like you say, you can make adjustments later. But for the vast majority of hobbyists, best left in the ocean I'm afraid.
Your last reply to my question about a suffering Pectinia sp. It has finished healing and was puffed up really big this morning. Currently, I have a 35 gal refugium on a gal tank, and around lbs of live rock and in DSB which was set up in the beginning of Most of the live rock is over five years old from my old tank.
My Caulerpa is from Indo Pacific, it has long 12" feather leaves and it is growing pretty well. My refugium is not covered in Caulerpa, but I think that is because of the low nutrient levels. My skimmer produces a dark waste about cups per week. And I do regular 15 gal water changes each week.
My question has to do with adding Miracle Mud. I would like to add this to my refugium. A friend runs his tank with no skimmer and Miracle MUD in his refugium. He does not add any calcium based products like bio calcium or Kalk to his system and his tank is flourishing. He says that the MM provides all the calcium and mineral supplements he needs. It must be since his tank is incredible. Should I just add MM slowly over a period of a week?
I was thinking about dividing the bottom of the refugium into two different sections with a piece of Plexiglas. Moving over the substrate that is establish and adding the Miracle Mud to the newly created spot in the refugium. What do you think about this process? Should I just leave things alone?
The main reason for wanting to add MM is for the mineral supplements for my tank, which is mainly SPS. Sorry for the long email, but maybe this will help other people with the process of overhauling their refugiums. It is as follows: Your written English is atrocious. They are running RO water at the right temp and sg but that is about all right now. I plan to build this over time into a reef system with fish, inverts, soft and hard corals.
However, I am in no rush and am happy to take my time getting this right. Nothing wrong with taking your time!
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Do consider "specializing" in one type of coral or another- i. It will be a much more successful and unique system if you run it this way. I can get 80lbs cured LR at a days notice. So, first question is do I opt for Caulerpa or Chaetomorpha? Does Chaeto have a good track record in MM sumps? Chaetomorpha is a "free-living" macroalgae, and doesn't need to attach to anything.
Although I'm not a big fan of Caulerpa, myself, I would use this macroalgae with the Eco System sumps. Do contact the company for their thoughts on this, however. Perhaps it may not be necessary to use Caulerpa, but I think that Leng Sy and his people would be the best source of answers on this one!
Mud in the sump, let it settle and when water is clear add LR in the main tank, followed a week or so later by algae. Test regularly and when ammonia, nitrite and nitrate are 0 add clean up crew of snails and hermit crabs. Chill out, keep measuring and if all is stable after a week or two try a couple of small fish probable Percs. Thx for your help. Read on the WWM site about the alternatives to using fish when cycling new systems. I'm brand new to the site and have to compliment you on all of the vast information that I've collected thus far.
I recently purchased an Ecosystem filtration. I have read that it requires no Protein skimmer. Seeing as how the first chamber of the sump is designed for use of the bio-balls a questionable item by some of you folkshow do I plumb in a skimmer with the first chamber already used? Is there a way that I can drill a hole in the outside wall for a pump for the skimmer?
Sorry if this question has already been answered on your site, but I have sifted for, it seems like forever, but I've never been able to find it. Any help would be greatly appreciated. BTW the tank is an All-Glass with the single overflow. Could I possible tap the down flow from the tank and plumb an inline setup and direct the "exhaust" water directly into the sump proper?
The water in the refugium is extremely cloudy and even when it settles it is stirred up again when I turn on the pump. Will it hurt my main tank if a little of that cloudiness gets in there? Thanks for being such a help. A handful is about max. I wrote a few weeks ago about keeping separately from my main reef system one or two Mantis Shrimps in a 10G tank which was answered no problem by Jim I think it was.
- Assisted Migration Assisted Colonization, Managed.
- A Glossary of Ecological Terms.
But on a recent visit home UK from China I purchased 10lbs. So, I am thinking about installing the 10G with Mantis s next to my G reef to locate the Miracle Mud in, and overflow back to the existing 40G sump.
So my questions would be: You spoke of Dead Sea Mud as beneficial What I find is for cosmetic human uses. I am looking for Dead Sea Mud for my refugium. Did I misunderstand the reference? Where do I find a source to buy some for my refugium?
What do you think about the benefit of GARF mud? The various etailers, most larger retailers sell this, other mud products I am going to use Brillo pad algae in it. Do I use all mud to fill it or do I need layers of crushed coral or dolomite? Its then siphoned to a 10 gallon tank, on the Berlin principle with a Euro-Reef rated to gallons.
Then returned to the main display tank. This is all made by myself for my 55 gallon. Works well so far. Both the aquarium and refugia have about 4 inches of fine ESV aragonite that I have inoculated with live sand containing invertebrates from 2 different web vendors. I just bought live mud from Reefer's Madness - when they called it "mud", I had no idea they meant "MUD" - and placed it on top of the aragonite in one refugium so that there is about 1 inch of dense, gooey black mud on top of the 4 inches of aragonite.
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Is there a possibility of creating an oxygen-free or oxygen-depleted zone in the aragonite that will kill the tiny invertebrates in the aragonite? Will the invertebrates in the aragonite avoid the gooey mud? Not a really precise answer- but that's the simple truth!
If it were me, I'd be careful about disturbing the sand bed. At this stage of the game, I'd just leave the mud alone and keep an eye on the life in the sandbed for any adverse reactions. Best of luck to you! Can you give me an update on the following questions: I see a lot of conflicting info on use of Caulerpa. Is it still recommended? Nothing is new here It is prone to "go sexual" and release its cellular material into the water under the right circumstances, and some also theorize that it may produce substances which are potentially toxic to some corals.
I prefer more "benign" macroalgae, such as Chaetomorpha. In addition, it is actually illegal to keep in some areas, such as Southern California, where it has been released into the wild, to great disdain. Under State law Assembly Billthe sale, possession, and transport of Caulerpa taxifolia was prohibited throughout California in September Is it okay to use a micron sock and prefilter sponge with this system?
Do these remove the desirable critters? Tunze Water level controlle All less than a year old still have boxes for most a well upgraded fluval m90 tank complete with hydra 52 hds and bracket, tunze atu with 10l ro drum, seneye reef with wifi box and web sever, bubble magus skimmer, tmc reef reactor, phosban reactor with own pump, upgraded eheim All less than a year old still have boxes for most a well upgraded fluval m90 tank complete Comes with live rock and sand plus some fake corals and a pair of percula clown fish.
For sale is the display tank, sump, cabinet and pipework. There is no equipment or livestock for sale. All tanks are segmented into 4 by dividers.
I have had this tank for 2 years and can honestly say it's the best tank I have owned to date! I have slightly modified the sump to create an algae and critters refugium, other than that, it comes as per manufacturer's s Aquaray led lights x4. Skimmer, led refugium lights x2. Upgraded pumps and flow generators. Full test kits and additives salt etc. Just add water and live rock.
New hood off the T with new twin bulb sets. If you will be gone for too long, you will simply have to find someone you trust to top off for you. Keep reading and keep learning! The tank was nice for about a year or two and then I slowly lost almost everything.
I believe the filter is rated for gal tank. I would not do this I have removed the original protein skimmer, I did not like the design, and added a Aquarium Systems, Seaclone skimmer to the filter. For the biological compartment, I have removed the Bio-Bale and returned to the ceramic rings. I have also added carbon for a few days to help remove some of the water discoloration from the peat.
My return pump it probably outputting to gph, but this is just an estimate. Could be lower, but I can't imagine by much. If you would like, I can include a picture of the filter at a later date. My MH are on for about 9 hrs and the sump lights for about I tried reduced lighting from 12 hours to 8 hours six months ago but then my BTA and corals don't seem as full or bright so I returned to 12 hour lighting and the hair algae has been growing.
So I have finally purchased a sump which I am converting to a Refugium and have some technical questions which I could not find the answers to in the library: The rock looks okay from afar, but on close inspection there is a slight green tint of copper on all the rocks.
What can I do to remove all copper from this rock before I cure it into Live Rock? I'd try Muriatic 3 molar HCl Thank you so much for your help. It is greatly appreciated. You might peruse this area: My nitrates, phosphates are at continuously at zero Im sure their higher just not picking them up in the tests.
Unless you find and eliminate the source of nutrient the algae is using, it will only return. I tried boiling it but the tint is still there. You've been had, perhaps unintentionally. Live rock that has been in a copper treated environment will never be suitable for use in a reef again; copper is absorbed deep in the rock and slowly leached if the rock is in water. There just isn't any way to clean and use this rock Or will the Hair Algae go away in due time if I leave it in the main tank and add the refugium?
Leave these rocks be, and they should clear up as macroalgae in the refugium outcompete the microalgae. I will also have an ideal mud bed with live rock and macro algae in the main refugium chamber area but I want to maximize all chambers. The larger tank is coming along splendidly, and I'd like to ensure its continued growth.
The tank inhabitants consist of mostly SPS corals -xenias, frogspawn, various mushrooms, star polyps, etc; and, a couple of clowns and a Scarlet Hawkfish love that guy! Also a CUC consisting primarily of snails and hermits. Would the BC-8 make a good refugium with Chaeto, live sand, etc? I guess I'm a little confused in that the BC8 fuge would have its own independent filtration system going.
A hang on the back overflow in the display, or a drain hole drilled will drain water to the refugium. In the refugium you will just need a pump matched to the overflow GPH pumping back to the display. More information in the link below and related FAQ's. The tank is about 9 months old but recently we have been having elevated nitrate problems.
What are your thoughts on refugiums with live mud? I'm not trying to feed my main tank. The only real issue I have with the mud is the false belief some have that it eliminates the need for a skimmer. Although a skimmer is never required, it does go a very long way towards maintaining a good water quality. The following link and related FAQ's will help you sort out which of these factors may apply to your situation.
First let me explain what I have and what I'm trying to do. I have a 12 gallon Aquapod HQI. I changed the return pump out with a Maxi-jet and added the Hydor Flo to the output to create a current and also added a Nano Koralia pump in display to add more current. I want to add a refugium. I bought a 2. I was going to play around with the flow to get it right. Do check the drain line often for algae buildup or anything else that may be restricting it.
I will be using Chaeto for my algae. With such a small refugium will I need a heater in it to heat it or will the water being pumped into it be just fine for keeping the temperature at an acceptable level?
I personally find myself constantly learning something new from WWM. Where the water overflows is a piece of foam to catch debris coming out of that section. Does the foam prevent any critters that the refugium produces from entering the next area, hence not making it into the main tank.
Should this foam be removed or will the plankton pass through the foam. The plankton will then find their way much more easily into your tank and continue multiplying and providing food there. Id, now refugium des. I have another question. This one is about refugia. Specifically, three tank bred orchid Dottybacks and two tank bred clarkii clowns.
Other livestock includes Gorgonia, soft corals and a variety of mushrooms and Ricordea. My tank has been up for about a year and all of my parameters have been stable.
I also have an Eheim canister which runs carbon continuously for allelopathy. After my refugium is well established I would like to keep a mandarin. I have not done a refugium yet and instead have lurked about WetWeb and read a variety of books CA included. My intent is to have a refugium that will be worth looking at I have purchased a 40 acrylic and plan to situate it in front of and below-no way to place it above my main tank. The overflow from the display will drain into the refugium and be returned via a pump that came with the display tank.
I would like to use Xenia for nutrient export. I would like to have other interesting species in the refugium. I'm thinking about Tridacna and a variety of tube worms. I know Xenia don't need as much light as the clams.
Will bright lighting be a problem for the Xenia? My question is I have a non drilled in my garage where the back wall of my display tank is going to be located.
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The bigger the better. Since you are coming through a wall you have no need to run the return through the bottom of the tank. Use those return holes for some extra draining capacity. Happy reefing, Scott V. Basically the sump and refugium would drain into center were return pump would be. This will allow a little extra capacity in your overflows. Hope this helps, Scott V. I might of asked you already but I was wondering if the inlet?
This is my preferred setup, it allow a greater volume in the refugium, but either configuration will work.
Would you "t"off supply? How does this sound?
This configuration is fine, and large too!! All of it sounds good, enjoy, Scott V. This would also be done on the left side. Basically there would be 4 returns on back of tank. Luckily, PVC is cheap and easy to adjust.
You can start the system up and play with it to achieve the desired flow pattern. I was planning using the Durso design. There is no benefit in my opinion, but no harm either. If you think its too much let me know. Should I start to fill main tank till the water gets to the return pump. But then I'm loosing a drain.
What do you think? You can stock the tank without a skimmer, but I always advocate for the use of a skimmer, from the start. I am working on the plumbing under tank just wanted to know what you think.
I might have to put an elbow then out the wall. All the water will come down to left through wall into sump.